WHEN: October 28th, 11am-1pm

WHERE: 7525 N Richmond Ave, Portland

Come and have some fun with us celebrating Halloween and learn about the services we offer!

• Trick or Treat booth for both kids & dogs
• Distraction walk for dogs
• Photo booth
• Training demo

The post Halloween at Instinct Portland 🎃 appeared first on Instinct Dog Behavior & Training.

Join us for our grand opening celebration

WHEN: Saturday, July 29, 12pm-4pm

WHERE: 7525 N Richmond Ave, Portland

Our new Behavioral Health facility is officially OPEN. We can’t wait to share this amazing, one-of-a-kind space with you and your dog!

• Refreshments for pups and people
• Facility tours
• Doggy paw print souvenirs
• Distraction Walk Challenge
• Chat with Instinct Portland team members
• Raffle Prizes!
  • Free Trial Boarding Day
  • $100 Gift Certificate to Instinct Gear Store

The post Facility Grand Opening: Instinct Portland! appeared first on Instinct Dog Behavior & Training.

Having a new puppy is EXCITING!

It can also be overwhelming and stressful. We get it. Raising a puppy is hard work. And if you’re like most puppy parents, you’re worried about getting everything ‘just right’.

First things first: You’re doing a GREAT job!

And second? We got you. You don’t need to navigate puppyhood alone.

Practical, Positive Help from Trusted Puppy Experts

Our certified behavior consultants and board certified veterinary behaviorists created this essential Puppy Parenting Guidebook to help you feel confident, prepared, and supported every step of the way.

We cover topics like:

• Socialization Do’s & Don’ts
• Crate Training
• Potty Training
• Biting & Nipping
• Essential Gear

…and SO much more!

Ready to Get Started?

Download our completely FREE Puppy Parenting Guidebook below:

Need In-Person Support?

We’re here to help!

Our certified, veterinarian-recommended trainers offer fully-customized puppy training support in the form of Private Coaching, Home School Programs, and Puppy Raising Camps.

All of our programs include lifetime support via free & low-cost alumni classes; an exclusive, Alumni-only Facebook group; and access to free weekly drop-in Q&A sessions with Instinct trainers.

Find your nearest Instinct Location; we’d love to connect and learn more about how we can help you & your puppy live a happier life together.

The post The Ultimate Puppy Parenting Guidebook appeared first on Instinct Dog Behavior & Training.

What would dog training look like if every dog owner had access to simple, practical resources that helped them understand their dog’s natural instincts, innate drives, and individual behavior needs?

What kinds of results could we help owners achieve if our training programs focused less on teaching “obedience”, and more on establishing healthy relationships, creating dog-smart environments, and implementing practical wellness routines that worked with each dog’s individual nature?

Nature-Driven Nurture by INSTINCT®

We are thrilled to announce the upcoming rollout of Nature-Driven Nurture, the revolutionary new approach to dog parenting and canine behavioral health support that works with a dog’s natural instincts and individual behavior needs.

Rooted in ethology and behavior science, Nature-Driven Nurture provides dog owners with a practical roadmap for raising, caring for, and training their canine family members. The approach was developed by Instinct’s team of certified behavior consultants and board-certified veterinary behaviorists. It reflects our best practices for collaborative coaching and canine behavioral health assessment & support – refined over tens of thousands of hours of hands-on training, behavior work, and academic study – boiled down into an effective, intuitive dog parenting methodology that is as relevant to owners raising a new puppy as it is to those navigating complex behavior issues with an adult dog.

Courses. Coaching. Community. Care.

Nature-Driven Nurture programming will roll out to Instinct clients over a three-month span covering January through March 2022. Programs will utilize a powerful multimodal learning model that includes individualized coaching, self-paced online courses, community support, and behavioral health-focused care services. The various program elements are designed to integrate seamlessly with Instinct’s current canine behavioral health focus, collaborative coaching model, and alumni support services, and to build upon our industry-leading canine behavioral health assessment tool, launched in May 2021.

By 2023, Instinct intends to weave machine learning and AI into Nature-Driven Nurture program design decisions, turning the data collected via its behavioral health assessment tool into powerful knowledge that can help to more accurately assess areas of risk and create optimal training & care plans for individual dogs and families.

Better Results. Stronger Relationships. Happier Dogs.

Nature-Driven Nurture helps dog owners achieve lasting, positive results where traditional dog training programs fall short, thanks to the method’s multidisciplinary focus on biology, health & wellness, environment, relationship dynamics, and learning experiences. Owners who use Nature-Driven Nurture experience a deeper level of connection, joy, and understanding with their dogs. And their dogs are happier, more fulfilled, more confident companions.

Instinct®, Instinct Dog Behavior & Training®, and the Instinct® dog logo are US Registered Trademarks. Instinct® is in the process of filing a registered trademark application for Nature-Driven Nurture with the United States Patent & Trademark Office.

The post Coming Soon: NATURE-DRIVEN NURTURE™ appeared first on Instinct Dog Behavior & Training.

Do you wish your dog could talk to you and tell you their feelings?

Your dog is talking to you all the time–just not with words. Dogs use their body to convey their feelings: to give warnings, to signal that they are feeling friendly and playful, and to tell us (or other dogs) that they’d rather not engage at the moment.

During this FREE interactive webinar, we’ll break down how dogs use their entire body to give us clues as to how they are feeling. We’ll help you look at the big picture when reading dog body language: sometimes a wagging tail isn’t the sign of a happy dog – so how do you know when a wag means “come here!” or “go away”?

Join Jessica Wheatcraft, Certified Dog Behavior Consultant and owner of Instinct San Diego, and begin to read and speak DOG!

Bring your questions: this webinar will be followed by a live Q&A. Don’t miss it! No recording is available.

SIGN UP LINK: https://www.facebook.com/events/551555405845620

The post Live Webinar July 14th: Learn to Speak Dog! appeared first on Instinct Dog Behavior & Training.

Your puppy is growing up! As puppies enter early adolescence, it is important to understand that – just like human teenagers – their behavior will naturally change and develop, particularly when it comes to play with other dogs; listening skills & manners; and conflict resolution strategies.

Let’s take a closer look at how our pups’ needs change in each of these important areas.

I. PLAY WITH OTHER DOGS

Playtime with other dogs can be an important social activity for dogs at every stage of their life. However, our dogs’ socialization needs change over time, and adolescence is no exception! The socialization experiences our dogs have during adolescence can have a lasting impact on their long-term outlook on dog-dog play.

Here’s what you should know about dog-dog play during early adolescence:

1. Other Dogs May Start to Treat Your Pup Differently

Between 5-6 months, your pup’s “Puppy Pass” expires. Dogs will begin to hold your puppy to a more adult standard of appropriateness when it comes to dog-dog interactions.

What does this mean?

• Typical puppy behaviors – biting at tails, ears and cheeks; placing paws up on other dogs’ shoulders; recklessly running into others; lots of muzzle licking, etc. – that were previously tolerated by adult dogs may now elicit a mild or moderate correction instead.
• These corrections can be scary to still-young pups who are left wondering why other dogs are suddenly taking offense to their super-cool puppy play moves.

2. Your Puppy May Start to Engage with Other Dogs Differently

Young adolescents may start to test the boundaries of appropriateness when interacting with other dogs. They can experiment with rude and impolite behaviors, and they often miss or ignore more subtle communication signals from other dogs asking them to tone it down.

What does this mean?

• It is important to choose play partners carefully during adolescence. Pups need to learn boundaries for polite play to avoid developing bullying tendencies, but they are also still young, sensitive, and highly impressionable.

Tips for Navigating Dog-Dog Play Sessions During Early Adolescence

There are some simple guidelines you can follow to set your young adolescent dog up for success during dog-dog play:

• Learn to read dog body language during play, so you can identify when your dog (or their playmate) needs a break, when things are getting out of hand, and when everyone is having a good time.
• Teach your dog a solid recall cue so you can call them out of dicey situations.
• Choose the right playmates:
  • Other adolescent pups of similar size and play style
  • Patient, socially savvy adult dogs who enjoy play and set clear boundaries through fair, appropriate feedback
• Avoid the wrong playmates:
  • Baby puppies aged 8-16 weeks are generally not well-suited to play with young adolescent dogs, as the “teenagers” can slip into bullying behaviors and overwhelm young pups. Exceptions include shy and very mild mild-mannered adolescents.
  • Stay away from adult dogs who are quick to give overly harsh corrections, especially if they are larger than your adolescent pup. Remember, your puppy is still young and impressionable; regular exposure to adult dogs who respond to careless play with inappropriate levels of aggression can leave your pup with lasting feelings of insecurity and uncertainty about interacting with other dogs.
• Opt for 1-on-1 play sessions, or a small, well-matched group.
• Start with a calm, low-arousal activity like a parallel walk or some training practice, before starting playtime. High arousal levels equal a higher likelihood of poor decisions and altercations.
• Keep play sessions relatively short, about 25-45 minutes. Any longer than that, and dogs typically start to run low on self-control, making them more likely to make poor decisions.

II. LISTENING SKILLS & MANNERS

As pups enter adolescence, they can become less responsive to known obedience cues and seem to suddenly forget their manners (sound familiar, parents of human tweens and teens?!). It is important to remember that your dog isn’t purposefully trying to be bad or to aggravate you. They are going through a totally normal – if sometimes frustrating – phase of their development.

What does this mean?

1. It’s Time to Train!

Now is the time to double-down on daily positive reinforcement-based training that focuses on fun, engagement, cooperation, and trust.

• Your puppy is growing up! It is natural that they want to broaden their horizons, exercise their independence, and experiment with new behaviors.
• Choose playful, positive reinforcement-based training that fosters a dynamic in which your growing pup genuinely enjoys listening to and engaging with you, and trusts that you are ALWAYS a safe place to turn as they explore their independence.
• KEEP IT POSITIVE! Resist the urge to turn to harsher, more aversive training techniques in an attempt to shut down these sometimes -obnoxious teenage behaviors. You’ll run the risk of destroying your pup’s trust in you as a safe place to turn while they figure out the world around them, and you can inadvertently create more serious, long-lasting behavior issues in the process.

2. It’s Time to Manage the Situation!

It is normal to need to make some temporary adjustments to your environment and routine, to temporarily scale back on certain freedoms and add in safety & management measures, in order to set your pup up for success during early adolescence. Here are some common examples:

• Owners often need to utilize a long line during off-leash time for a little while, to ensure their pup’s recall stays reliable during adolescence.
• Adolescent dogs are LARGER than puppies, and their cognitive abilities are increasing, too. It is common to use a gate to keep your adolescent pup out of the kitchen to prevent them from discovering the joys of counter-surfing and trashcan-raiding.

III. CONFLICT RESOLUTION STRATEGIES

As our puppies transition into adolescence, they may begin to experiment with solving problems in a more adult manner. Sometimes, these new behaviors are just temporary blips that are a normal part of development, and are nothing to be concerned about. Other times, they are an important signal that our pups need help with confidence building and coping skills to ensure these new behaviors don’t turn into longer term behavior issues.

What to Watch for:

• Puppies who displayed fearful or cautious behavior around certain people, dogs or objects may now begin to display more proactive distance-increasing behaviors – lunging, snapping, barking – toward those concerning triggers.
• Puppies who displayed overly submissive body language or appeasement behavior when meeting other dogs (e.g., immediately rolling over and exposing their belly/groin, excessively licking other dogs’ muzzles, etc.) may experiment with more forward communication signals that indicate their discomfort and desire for space. Growling, raising a lip, snapping, and lunging are all new tactics that may be utilized to ask the other dog to move away.

It is a great idea to work with a skilled trainer or behavior consultant during this important phase of your pup’s life, so you can identify which behavior changes are a normal part of development, and which should be addressed with specific behavior modification efforts.

RECAP: UNDERSTANDING CHANGING BEHAVIOR NEEDS DURING EARLY ADOLESCENCE

Remember, changes in behavior are NORMAL as your dog progresses through different stages of development. Here are three common changes that may occur during early adolescence:

1. Your dog’s behavior around other dogs may change during adolescence. Providing opportunities for safe, healthy play with appropriate play partners is important.
2. Your dog’s responsiveness to obedience skills may change, and you may see a regression in manners. Don’t panic! Implement daily positive reinforcement-based training that focuses on fun and engagement.
3. Your dog’s conflict resolution strategies may change, and they may experiment with more proactive behaviors to create space for themselves. Work with a trainer to determine whether these changes are a normal part of development, or something that should be addressed via behavior modification.

Learn More about Canine Adolescence

Check out Canine “Teenagers”, a seriously awesome episode of our podcast, DogLab, featuring Dr. Naomi Harvey of Dogs Trust. Dr. Harvey discusses her recent (fascinating) research on canine adolescence and provides a ton of helpful info and advice on helping owners navigate through this phase of development in a positive manner.

Feeling Overwhelmed?

Adolescence is different for every dog, with some presenting more challenging issues and behaviors than others. Hang in there! There is help available. Reach out to us at Instinct, or find a certified dog behavior consultant near you via www.iaabc.org.

The post Canine Teenagers: Navigating Early Adolescence with Your Growing Pup appeared first on Instinct Dog Behavior & Training.

Potty training a puppy takes effort and consistency, but it is generally a fairly straightforward process if you follow some simple rules and guidelines.

KEY #1: MAINTAIN A PREDICTABLE SCHEDULE

Maintaining a consistent, predictable schedule helps your puppy get into the routine of potty training and makes it easier for them to build good habits. In this section, we’ll review how to:

• 1.a) Follow the Potty Training Flow Chart
• 1.b) Set up a schedule that works for your pup’s age
• 1.c) Keep a potty training log that ensures your whole family is keeping your pup on a consistent schedule
• 1.d) Conduct potty breaks in a way that ensures your pup learns to ‘go’ quickly when you take them outside

1.a) POTTY TRAINING FLOW CHART:

Your pup’s potty training schedule should repeat this cycle of events throughout the day:

Note that during potty training, your puppy should only ever be in one of three situations:

• in their crate or pen resting
• on a supervised potty break
• enjoying some supervised free time, which can include any combo of a walk, yard time, indoor play time, and indoor tether/settle time.

1.b) FREQUENCY OF POTTY BREAKS BY AGE

*Meals can be fed at the end of a free time period, just before a crate time period.

**In addition to their regularly scheduled potty breaks, remember that puppies often need to pee or poop:

• Immediately after running around and playing
• Soon after taking a drink or eating a meal
• Immediately after waking up from a nap

1.c) DAILY PUPPY SCHEDULE LOG

Use the two charts above (Potty-Training Flow Chart & Frequency of Potty Breaks by Age chart) to create potty training schedule for your puppy. Then, use the daily puppy schedule log below to track your pup’s progress!

1.d) HOW-TO: TIPS FOR SUCCESSFUL POTTY BREAKS

There are a few simple tricks you can use to avoid accidents and get your puppy to go quickly and consistently each time you take them out for a potty break:

• Don’t Dilly Dally. Take your puppy outside immediately after they come out of their crate or confinement area.
• Keep your puppy on a leash, even if you’re just going out in your backyard. This ensures you can keep a close eye on your puppy, AND it makes it easier for you to praise & reward them promptly when they do pee or poop.
• Stick to a small area. If you walk from place to place, your pup will constantly be distracted by new sights & smells, and it will take them longer to go potty. Wait until after they pee and poop, then praise and reward them with the chance to explore.
• Get ‘em moving. If your pup is on “poop strike”, try doing a quick little run-around with them in a small area; the activity can stimulate them to go.

KEY #2: PROVIDE PROPER SUPERVISION & CONFINEMENT AREAS

Providing proper supervision during free time AND setting up a designated confinement/rest area can mean the difference between a successful potty training program and an unsuccessful one. This section will provide you with simple guidelines to:

• 2.a) Structure free time in a way reduces the likelihood of accidents
• 2.b) Set up both short-term & medium-term confinement areas to reduce accidents, build bladder control, AND ensure your pup is getting the rest they need

2.a) HOW-TO: TIPS FOR SUCCESSFUL FREE TIME

Remember: based on the Potty Training Flow Chart, your pup is ALWAYS in one of three situations during potty training: in their crate/confinement area, on a potty break, or enjoying some free time. We have TWO simple rules to follow to ensure free time doesn’t become ‘free-for-all’ time:

1. Free time = supervised time; this means:

• • Your pup needs to be in the same room as you
  • You need to have two eyes on your puppy at all times when they are out for free time
  • Your pup should go in their crate or pen if you need to step outside even for just a minute

2. Free time = active play + tether time/settle time;
   • For many puppies, the ideal ratio of active play to settle time during free time is about 1:1
   • For example, if your 3-month-old puppy currently does about 45 minutes of free time before going into her crate for a nap, that free time might be split into 20 minutes of active play & training, then 20 minutes of quietly chewing on a bone next to you while on a tether
   • Providing a mix of both active play AND settle time ensures that:
     • your pup can actually hold it until the next potty break (remember, physical activity can stimulate them to need to go pee or poop)
     • your pup doesn’t inadvertently learn that free time = non-stop party time
     • your pup doesn’t become overstimulated, leading to increased mouthiness/nipping (if you are struggling with puppy nipping & biting, check out our guide to reducing puppy biting).

2.b) HOW-TO: TIPS FOR SETTING UP CONFINEMENT AREAS

There are two types of confinement areas we use during potty training: a) a crate, and b) a pen or gated, puppy-proofed area. The crate and the pen serve different purposes. Most puppy owners find it easiest to have both options available, while other owners find they need only one or the other, based on their schedule and their individual puppy. Below are guidelines for when & how to use a crate vs. a pen during potty training:

1. The Crate.

• • What: a plastic or wire kennel designed to keep a dog or puppy safely & securely confined and out of trouble when an owner is not present.
  • Why: a crate can be helpful during potty training because, if sized correctly, it can encourage a pup to learn to hold their bladder at times when an owner may not be able to directly supervise the pup. This cuts down on potty accidents, thus speeding up potty training. As an added benefit, getting your pup comfortable in a crate means they won’t be stressed if they ever go to board at a vet’s office or kennel.
  • How: a crate should be large enough for a puppy to stand, turn around, and lie down comfortably, but not so large that the pup can comfortably create both a “potty area” and a “sleeping area” inside the crate. The crate can be made comfy by putting a fleece blanket or crate pad inside, along with a couple of toys and bones that are safe for the pup to have without direct supervision. Some pups find it easier to settle if a lightweight sheet is draped over the front of the crate. Just be sure to leave the backside uncovered to allow plenty of airflow.
  • When: a crate should be used for short term confinement only, never for longer than your pup is able to hold their bladder, and ideally, never more than 3-4 hours at a time (even if they can hold it longer than that).

When it Comes to the Crate, Don’t Overdo It. A crate is a really helpful training tool but be careful not to overuse it. Crates are small, confined spaces, and while they are perfectly okay to use for short periods of time throughout the day, we don’t want our pups to have to spend too much time in them.

2. The Pen or Gated Area

• • What: think of this as similar to a play pen for (human) babies. It is a safe, secure area where the pup can move around and play with toys when an owner is unable to directly supervise or is not present. But this pen has an indoor potty area in the form of a wee wee pad or litter box.
  • Why: a pen keeps your puppy safe & secure, just like a crate, when you are unable to supervise them. But, unlike a crate, a pen also provides your pup with access to a designated indoor spot to go potty
  • How: a pen or gated area should include a few things: the dog’s (open) crate with a comfy bed or blanket inside; a wee wee pad in a tray (to discourage chewing/tearing) or litter box; a bowl of fresh water, and several safe toys and bones. The pen/gate should be securely fixed in place and high enough that your pup can’t scale over it.
  • When: a pen can be used for medium-term confinement, when your puppy will need to wait longer than they are currently able to hold it, to receive a potty break. This ensures they are not soiling their crate/themselves, and they are still practicing going in an “approved” potty spot.
    • Examples: if your 2-month-old pup needs to go out for a potty break every 90 minutes, but you need to be out of the house for 2.5 hours, you can leave your puppy in their pen with access to a wee wee pad, instead of in their crate. Same goes for overnight: if your pup can only last about 6 hours overnight, but you need a solid 8 hrs to feel functional, have your pup sleep in a pen with a wee wee pad overnight until they get a little older.

Your Pen or Gated Area Can Replace Your Crate. As your pup ages, you can often ditch the crate entirely, and use the pen/gated area as your pup’s primary confinement area when they are left alone (until they are old enough to be trusted not to chew up your pillows and get into things that might harm them!). When you notice that your puppy is no longer making use of the wee wee pads during pen time, that’s a good cue that you can remove the pads altogether and swap out closed crate time for pen time.

KEY #3: USE A PATIENT, POSITIVE APPROACH

This is the shortest section in our potty training basics guide, but it is one of the most important! Why? Because it is a reminder that:

• 3.a) Your puppy is still a baby
• 3.b) Potty training is a process

3.a) Your Puppy is Still a Baby.

It is sometimes easy to forget just how young our pups are when we bring them home. But they really are just babies, still developing control over their bodily functions while they also attempt to learn how to navigate a new environment, new people, and whole new set of silly human rules. Stay positive. Reward and celebrate with your pup when they do the right thing. Stay calm and avoid scolding if they have an accident in the house – you want to remain a safe, trusted place for your pup to turn as they grow up.

3.b) Potty Training is a Process.

It takes time, and your progress will not be a straight line. Your puppy WILL have accidents in the house. Sometimes, it will be 100% your fault because you waited too long to take them out, you missed a clear signal that they were about to go, or your attention got diverted by life and your pup went without you noticing. Other times, you won’t know exactly why. Maybe your pup had a bigger drink than normal. Maybe they were just feeling a little bit yucky or extra sleepy, and they forgot themselves for a moment.

No matter the reason, just remember, this is normal! So long as you are doing your best to stick to the schedule, and so long as you are seeing a positive trend, you and your pull WILL be okay! Have patience, and look for progress, not perfection :).

One last reminder: there is additional help available!

The information in this guidebook is standardized advice that works for the majority of puppies. If you are following all of the guidelines enclosed here but you are still struggling, don’t worry! Some pups take a little longer to mature and develop bladder control. Some pups are nervous outside and thus are more likely to want to eliminate inside the home. And some pups are just plain tricky to potty train. If you are feeling frustrated, your primary care veterinarian and/or a professional trainer can provide you with support beyond what is outlined here, with guidance that is customized especially to your puppy and their individual needs.

Happy Training!

The post How to Potty Train Your Puppy appeared first on Instinct Dog Behavior & Training.

Puppies. So soft and cute. So snuggly and playful. And sometimes, SO BITEY. While 99.5% of puppy biting isn’t meant to cause us harm, those needle-sharp teeth can still really hurt! It’s not surprising that puppy biting is a behavior many owners want to curb ASAP.

A certain amount of bitey, mouthy behavior is an expected part of puppyhood. But, there are some common reasons puppies display biting and mouthing behaviors beyond just normal puppy development. The good news? Once you know the reasons, there are some simple adjustments you can make to decrease those bitey behaviors AND help your puppy feel better at the same time. It’s a win-win!

Read on for 6 common reasons 8- to 20-week-old puppies sometimes act like pint-sized landsharks.

#1. They are TIRED

Being overtired is one of the most common reasons we see puppies exhibit overly bitey and nippy behavior. Young puppies need 16-18 hours of sleep each day. Much like a human baby or toddler, puppies get fussy and cranky when they are tired, but they don’t yet have enough self-awareness to recognize they need a nap to feel better.

How You Can Help Your Puppy:

• Give your puppy scheduled rest periods and quiet times throughout the day
• If you have a very lively, active household, make sure your pup’s resting place – whether a a crate, an exercise pen, or a gated, puppy-proofed room – is in a quiet, low traffic spot where they won’t be constantly disturbed by household commotion.

#2. They are OVEREXCITED

Young puppies have not yet learned to regulate their emotional arousal. When then become overly excited or aroused, they start to lose inhibition and self-control, which leads to them getting extra bitey.

How You Can Help Your Puppy:

• Imagine your pup’s excitability on a scale of 1 to 10, where 1 is totally calm and relaxed, and 10 is a full-on case of the puppy zoomies.
• When you see your pup’s excitement level creeping up to a 7 or 8 during play, help them learn to stop, take a breath, and calm down a bit.
• You can do this by modeling calm, relaxed behavior yourself: slow down your movements, blink your eyes softly, and stay quiet or speak only using low, slow tones.
• With practice, your pup will quickly learn to take their cues from you that it’s times to take a break and settle down.
• You can also practice playing “Go Wild & Freeze” with your pup, like Trainer Lauren is doing in this video with Camper Donnie:

#3. They are FRUSTRATED

Just as very young children may feel the desire to hit, slap, or kick when frustrated, young puppies will often use their teeth to display frustration and anger. It is easy to view frustrated biting as a puppy being obnoxious or “bratty.” But try to remember that frustration is a really icky emotion, and it is often born from feelings of confusion and/or lack of control about a situation.

How You Can Help Your Puppy:

• If you see your puppy becoming frustrated, first try to identify the source of frustration (for example, being restrained, being brushed, having a toy taken away, etc.).
• Then, recreate easier versions of that scenario, and reward your puppy for doing whatever it is you’d like them to do INSTEAD of biting and nipping. In the video below, Camper Gizmo learns to accept brushing without getting frustrated and mouthy.
• In addition, impulse control games are a great way to help your puppy learn more productive, socially appropriate ways to cope with feelings of frustration.

#4. Your actions say “BITE ME”

There are some things we humans do that are the equivalent of wearing a great big “Bite Me” sign on our backs! Here are a couple of common ones:

1. Sitting on the floor for prolonged periods of time with an excited, active puppy. Why? When you sit on the floor, you are likely to become a living, breathing climbing apparatus, complete with all kinds of fun knobs and doohickies on which to gnaw and pull: your nose, ears, hair, the strings on your sweatshirt, and more.
2. Making high-pitched squealing noises and quick, jerky movements. There is a reason puppy toys have squeakers . When we make high-pitched noises and quickly pull our hands away from a puppy, they instinctively respond with chasing and nipping.

How You Can Help Your Puppy:

• Instead of sitting cross-legged on the floor, try sitting on your knees. This makes it easy for you to quickly straighten up and remove access to your lap if your pup becomes nippy.
• Avoid making too many squeal-y, overly excited sounds around your puppy (though a higher pitched “pup-pup-pup” or kissy noise is a great way to entice your puppy to come to you). And, keep your movements controlled. If your puppy nips at you, try freezing instead of jerking your hand away.

#5. They are saying “NO THANKS” to petting

Many puppies will become bitey or mouthy when you pet them for too long. Sometimes, this can be chalked up to the pup getting overstimulated from all the scritch-scratching, but many other times, your pup is asking you – in the best way they know how – to please give them a break.

How You Can Help Your Puppy:

We don’t want puppies to learn that biting and nipping is an effective way to make human hands go away. Instead, we want to teach pups that they can say, “yes, please” or “no, thank you” to petting without having to use their teeth.

Try this:

• First, only pet your puppy when they are already calm and relaxed (remember reason #2 – overexcited puppies are more likely to be bitey).
• Pet your puppy for just 3-5 seconds at a time, then pause and take your hands away.
• If your pup nuzzles or moves toward your hand, pet them again. But, if they move away or just quietly lay in place, they are telling you they don’t really care about or want pets at that time.
• Over time, you can start to present your open hands to your pup as an invitation that asks, “Would you like some pets?” If they approach and curl into you, that’s a great big, “Yes please!” But if they don’t, they are saying “No thank you” in a manner that is far less painful than pointy puppy teeth. Watch the video below to learn petting do’s and don’ts that work for both puppies AND adult dogs:

#6. They are just being a PUPPY

Viewing the world as one big chew toy is a normal part of puppy development. Your puppy WILL sometimes try to chew on your fingers and nip your pant legs, even if they are not feeling sleepy, overstimulated, or frustrated.

How You Can Help Your Puppy:

• Since your puppy IS going to bite/chew/gnaw on something, be sure to provide them with access to a variety of safe toys, chews, and bones in different textures. This makes it easy for them to make good choices when deciding where to put their needle-sharp teeth.
• In addition, providing the opportunity to play with other puppies is a great way to fulfill your puppy’s need to bite and mouth as part of play.

BONUS REASON: They have to POOP!

If your puppy suddenly becomes wild-eyed and starts zooming around, biting at your hands, feet, and clothes, they very well may have to go potty. We’re not sure exactly why, but many puppies get a little whacky right before the have to poop.

Want our handy “6 Reasons Your Puppy Is Biting You” infographic? Just right click and save the image below!

Happy Training!

The post 6 Reasons Your Puppy is Biting You appeared first on Instinct Dog Behavior & Training.

If you’re working on a behavior modification plan to help your dog with fear, anxiety, or aggression issues, chances are you’ve pondered (or asked your trainer) at least one of the following questions along the way:

• Is all this “management” really necessary right now? Aren’t we just avoiding the issue?
• How do these exercises relate to the problems we’re having?
• Shouldn’t I maybe test out some trickier scenarios, just to see how my dog does?
• How long are we going to be working on this? Will we ever really be finished?

Those are totally understandable questions. Behavior modification is a foreign process to most of us; as a society, we’re generally far more knowledgeable about the treatment of physical health issues than we are about the treatment of behavioral and emotional ones.

As luck would have it, the process of working through a behavior modification program with your dog shares some similarities to going through the recovery process for a physical health issue, like an injury.

Let’s consider these two theoretical scenarios, one a physical injury, and one a behavior issue:

#1. PHYSICAL INJURY: Mary Sprains Her Ankle

Mary is a cross-country runner. During a race, she rolls her ankle while navigating a rocky trail. She’d been experiencing some low-level ankle pain for a while, but this SERIOUSLY hurts. She hobbles into a hospital emergency room grimacing in pain. She is examined by the doctor, receives x-rays, and is diagnosed with a badly sprained ankle.

#2. BEHAVIOR ISSUE: Fluffy is Displaying Dog-Directed Aggression & Reactivity

Over the past year, Fluffy the dog has started getting in fights at the dog park and displaying increasing levels of reactivity toward dogs on walks. Fluffy is actively scanning for other dogs on walks; reactions are intense, and she takes a long time to recover after a blow-up. A behavior consultant meets with the owner, Sam, and determines Fluffy’s aggressive behavior is motivated by a combination of fear and frustration.

It’s pretty apparent that each of these individuals needs some treatment to help improve their current situation. In each case, the treatment will occur in phases. Each phase – from acute care to rehabilitation to long-term prevention & management – is a necessary and important part of a successful treatment plan. Exactly how long each phase lasts will depend on the individual.

Treatment Phase 1: ACUTE CARE

Implement immediate, temporary interventions to prevent injury or behavior issue from worsening; allow the body (or brain) to get to a place where physical therapy or behavior modification can effectively begin.

ACUTE CARE for MARY

MARY is given a compression wrap and crutches. For the next 5-7 days, she is told to avoid putting weight on the ankle. She is to rest, apply ice every 20 minutes during the day, keep the ankle elevated when possible, and take anti-inflammatories to help reduce swelling so that healing can occur, and physical therapy can begin.

ACUTE CARE FOR FLUFFY

SAM is advised to stop taking Fluffy to the dog park and to avoid walking routes where there is any chance of encountering other dogs. She is told to give Fluffy a “stress vacation,” avoiding stressful experiences while providing positive, relaxing activities. The goal is to reduce any chronically elevated stress levels so that learning can occur, and behavior modification can begin. Sam is also advised to contact a local veterinary behaviorist to determine whether medication would be helpful in setting the stage for learning to occur.

Treatment Phase 2: REHABILITATION

Physical therapy or behavior modification begins, focused on building/rebuilding the individual’s relevant functional abilities. Rehab occurs gradually to reduce the risk of re-injury/regression.

REHABILITATION for MARY

MARY starts her physical therapy. She begins with low-impact stretching exercises. Over weeks and months, she slowly and carefully builds up to more rigorous, high-impact physical exercises. Throughout, the focus is on rebuilding strength and flexibility in her injured ankle and the rest of her body.

REHABILITATION FOR FLUFFY

SAM starts working with Fluffy on confidence building, frustration tolerance & attention on leash. She also starts Fluffy on a behavior medication to help her better cope with stress and frustration. Over weeks and months, she works on desensitization and counterconditioning around other dogs on walks to help Fluffy feel more relaxed and comfortable when she encounters other dogs at increasingly close distances. They also work on slow, careful one-on-one introductions to appropriate doggy playmates at the behavior consultant’s training facility.

Treatment Phase 3: PREVENTION & MANAGEMENT

Ongoing maintenance exercises serve to retain progress made during rehabilitation. Semi-permanent or permanent alterations to lifestyle and/or environment mitigate risks of re-injury/regression.

PREVENTION & MANAGEMENT for MARY

MARY is running regularly again! She wears an ankle wrap and new, more supportive shoes on runs to provide her ankle with extra stability, and she avoids rocky and uneven trails. During humid weather, she takes pain medication to manage some mild arthritis in her ankle, and she takes a few days off to rest if her ankle starts bothering her. She goes to the gym and does regular strength training and stretching exercises to reduce risk of reinjury.

PREVENTION & MANAGEMENT FOR FLUFFY

SAM and Fluffy go on daily walks and are able to pass most dogs successfully! Sam uses a front-clip harness and brings treats with her on walks so she can continue to practice & reinforce the skills they worked on during behavior modification. Fluffy still takes daily behavior medication, but the dose has been reduced. Sam avoids walking routes & times of day when dog traffic is especially high. She no longer visits the dog park and instead arranges playdates with a couple of dog friends in her neighborhood. Sam follows a specific protocol when introducing Fluffy to a new dog, and Fluffy wears a comfy basket muzzle until the initial “get to know you” period has passed. There are certain types of dogs that Fluffy just doesn’t enjoy, and Sam avoids those dogs and does not attempt introductions.

Additional Considerations

If you’ve made it this far, congratulations! You’re about to learn a couple of other important parallels hidden within in the descriptions of the treatment phases we just outlined together:

1. SETBACKS HAPPEN.

Sometimes during treatment, we misjudge our progress and our abilities, or we’re faced with an unanticipated, unavoidable situation we’re not yet ready for. As a result, we have setbacks in progress that require us to step back a phase (or spend more time in the current phase) before progressing again. Let’s use our friends, Mary, Sam & Fluffy, as examples again:

MARY’S SETBACK

About 6 weeks into physical therapy, Mary went on vacation and tried running along the beach one morning. About one mile in, she recognized her mistake; her ankle was throbbing. She needed to rest for a few days and take meds to alleviate the swelling and pain. Her physical therapist instructed her to go back to her “Week 4” exercises, then work her way back up to where she was pre-beach run.

FLUFFY’S SETBACK

Fluffy was making some exciting, positive strides during her behavior modification program. She was becoming less reactive & hypervigilant on walks, and she seemed more relaxed at home too. After about 4 weeks of practice, Sam decided to try taking Fluffy back to the dog park, just to see if she did better after the 4-week break. About 10 minutes into the visit, Fluffy got into a fight and Sam left in tears. For the next few days, Fluffy was far more reactive to other dogs on walks, even at far distances. Sam took a step back and worked on some of their foundation exercises, and after about a week and a half, the team got back where they were prior to the dog park visit.

Setbacks happen to EVERYONE. All we can do is take a breath, recognize that it’s usually not the end of the world, and get back to work.

2. LIMITATIONS CAN EXIST.

Depending on the severity of, and/or genetic predisposition toward the issue, there can be lifelong limitations on the amount of progress to be made. Long term management and modifications to our environment, activities, and routines may be required to reduce the risk of re-injury/regression. Let’s review some limitations that were mentioned in Treatment Phase 3: Prevention & Management for both Mary and Fluffy:

MARY’S LIMITATIONS

• Mary is no longer able to safely run on rocky or rough terrain
• She is required to wear an ankle wrap, along with extra-supportive shoes
• She is required to do regular strength and flexibility conditioning
• She sometimes needs meds to help with the arthritis that resulted from the injury

FLUFFY’S LIMITATIONS

• Fluffy requires ongoing reinforcement of her new, more appropriate behaviors
• Sam avoids very high traffic dog areas
• She and Fluffy will no longer visit the dog park
• Fluffy wears a muzzle when being introduced to new dog friends; not all dogs are candidates to become Fluffy’s friends
• Fluffy continues to take daily behavior medication to help with her low frustration tolerance and her inherent difficulty coping with stress

Limitations are a very real and normal part of the process, both for physical injuries and for behavior issues. If we focus only on the limitations, it’s easy to get discouraged. But the most important parts of Mary’s, and Sam & Fluffy’s, stories is that things are a whole lot better than they were before. Mary is RUNNING again! And Sam & Fluffy are enjoying their walks together, and they have a safe, fun way to meet new dog friends. And that’s AMAZING. The focus is on making things better, not perfect.

Final Thoughts

Behavior modification for complex behavior issues is challenging but also unbelievably rewarding and worth it. When we better understand the end-to-end process (and what “finished” really looks like), it can make the journey a whole lot less frustrating and make it easier to celebrate our dogs’ incremental improvements.

Keep up the great work, and Happy Training!

The post What Can Sprained Ankles Teach Us About Dog Behavior Modification? appeared first on Instinct Dog Behavior & Training.

New York, NY, RELEASE – August 5, 2019 – Instinct Dog Training Inc. is overjoyed to announce that the company’s vision of A Kinder World through Dog Training is coming to Portland, Oregon! The fifth Instinct Dog Behavior & Training® location, dubbed “Instinct Portland,” is slated to open spring 2020. Location scouting is currently underway.

Instinct Portland is owned by an impressive and highly qualified team: board certified veterinary behaviorist Dr. Chris Pachel, DACVB, owner of Animal Behavior Clinic in Portland and VP, Veterinary Behavior at Instinct Dog Training, Inc., and dog behavior consultant Dr. Caroline Spark, CDBC, owner of Portland-based dog training company, City Dog Country Dog.

Instinct Portland will offer dogs and owners positive reinforcement-based behavior and training help from certified trainers and behavior consultants, for everything from basic manners and obedience to complex behavior issues involving fear, aggression, and anxiety. Services include Instinct’s signature positive reinforcement Board & Train camps, private lessons, group classes, free puppy and “Alumni” classes, and special needs boarding. In addition, Instinct Portland will house Dr. Pachel’s Animal Behavior Clinic, which provides Portland pet owners with veterinary behavior services.

“We are thrilled to have such an incredible pair at the helm of Instinct Portland,” said Sarah Fraser, Co-CEO of franchisor company Instinct Dog Training Inc. “The ability to offer top-tier training, behavior consulting, and veterinary behavior services all under one roof is a game-changer for dog owners, and will serve as an important model for other Instinct locations.”

“To say we’re excited is an understatement,” said Dr. Pachel and Dr. Spark, co-owners of the Instinct Portland franchise. “For years, our respective businesses have worked to help Portland dogs and owners live together peacefully and happily. Combining forces through Instinct Portland will allow us to help even more dogs and owners, and have an even bigger, broader positive impact on our community.”

For dogs, for owners, for hope and kindness, and practical help for behavior issues big and small. For #trainingcampnotbootcamp. For a new and better standard in the dog training industry. For A Kinder World through Dog Training. Welcome to the Instinct family, Instinct Portland!

Chris Pachel, DACVB, CABC

Christopher Pachel, DVM, DACVB, CABC received his veterinary degree from the University of MN in 2002 and became board certified by the American College of Veterinary Behaviorists in 2010.  He has operated both house-call and office-based behavior practices and is currently the owner and lead clinician at the Animal Behavior Clinic in Portland, OR.  Dr. Pachel lectures regularly throughout the US and Canada, teaches courses at multiple veterinary schools in the US, and has authored several articles and book chapters on topics such as Intercat aggression and Pet selection for animal assisted therapy.  He is a sought-after expert witness for legal cases involving animal behavior issues, and is also a Vice President of Veterinary Behavior on the executive leadership team for Instinct Dog Training, Inc.

Caroline Spark, PhD, CDBC, CPDT-KA

Dr. Caroline Spark is a Certified Dog Trainer and Behavior Consultant, and a Karen Pryor Academy Certified Training Partner. She has over 45 years of experience helping people solve problems, meet learning goals, and achieve positive change. With a PhD in psychology from the University of Wollongong, Australia, and a background in counseling and adult education, she brings extensive people-skills and understanding of behavior, family dynamics, and human learning to her work with dogs and their families. Through her company, City Dog Country Dog, she and her team in Portland and on the Oregon Coast have helped thousands of dogs overcome behavior issues big and small.  Caroline brings understanding, warmth, and creativity to her work, and believes strongly in Instinct’s mission to provide kind, practical training and behavior resources to every dog and owner.

Helpful Links:

Instinct Website: www.instinctdogtraining.com

Franchise inquiries: franchise@instinctdogtraining.com

Press inquiries: press@instinctdogtraining.com

© Instinct Dog Training Inc. | 181 E 111^th Street | New York, NY 10029

Instinct Dog Behavior & Training and the Instinct logo are US Registered Trademarks.

Disclaimer: This information does not constitute an offer to sell a franchise. The offer of a franchise can only be made through the delivery of a franchise disclosure document. Certain states require that we register the franchise disclosure document in those states. The communications included within this release are not directed by us to the residents of any of those states. Moreover, we will not offer or sell franchises in those states until we have registered the franchise (or obtained an applicable exemption from registration) and delivered the franchise disclosure document to the prospective franchisee in compliance with applicable law.

The post Instinct Dog Behavior & Training® Coming to Portland, Oregon appeared first on Instinct Dog Behavior & Training.